Right well along the lines of sanj's haynes manual and general screw ups. Here's my latest guide to changing the rear brake discs. This was done on my Corolla but the brake system on most UK built toyota's is the same. Made by TRW with rear discs and a handbrake system in a drum inside the rear disc. Things you will need:

1. 21mm Socket for the wheels

2. 14mm socket for the carrier bolts

3. 12mm socket for the guide pin bolts

4. flat bladed screwdriver

5. a G Clamp

1. right the first thing to do is to loosen the wheel nuts and then jack the car up. I can't emphasise enough how important it is to make sure the car is supported properly, as it places way more stress on the body than you'll ever get in normal use. I use the wheel jacking point with my jack underneath and then i put an axle stand as close as i can get to the wheel changing point with only LIGHT pressure on it. Here's my dad with my 2ft long breaker bar! Make sure you put some bricks under the front wheels and leave it in gear, as you'll have to take the handbrake off

2. Once you've got the wheel off, you should have something that looks like this.

3. Next job is to spray some penetrating fluid. WD-40 or something similar and leave it to work for 10 minutes. I would personally go for a rampant spray on every bolt on the brake assembly as invariably it will be caked up.

4. Once you've left that for 10 minutes to penetrate, its time to remove the guide pin bolts. These aren't particularly tight so you can get them off with a spanner. If you can get a 6pt spanner or socket on it, then do it. these bolts are easy to round. There are two of these, and here's the other one, take them both out

5. Take the caliper off, tie it with a bit of string or rope to the suspension or leave it on the trailing arm (which is what i did) just make sure the hose isn't under tension. Once you've done that. take the pads out.

6. Now its time to take the carrier off. these are 17mm (IIRC). again use a 6pt spanner and undo these, there are two of these. You will need something that is at least 30cmlong to get them undone unless you've got a ramp! here's the other one. I'm using a 60cm breaker bar and it was tight!

7. Now take the carrier off

8. If your disc pulls off, then skip this step. If it doesn't then its likely the shoes have ground into the disc drum bit, so you have to retract the shoes. Spin the disc round so the black dust plug is towards the bottom and then remove the black dust plug. have a look through (you might need a torch) and see if you can see a toothed wheel. Spin this upwards and the shoes will retract. I have taken a photograph here of the disc removed to show the position of the wheel and what it looks like.

If the disc still doesn't come off with the shoes retracted or your disc has seized on, then you need to get 2x8mm bolts and drive these into the jacking holes provided.

If it sticks, and mine did, you'll end up with 2 halves of a brake disc! I think mine was damaged beforehand but can't be totally certain.

9. Once the brake disc is off, you'll have something that looks like this. Make sure you give the hub a good clean, I used a wire brush and then some fine wet and dry to get the corrosion off. Then grease the hub with copper grease and its time to put the new disc on.



I went for dinner and came back, hence the change in lighting!

10. Now put the disc on (clean with meths) and then flick the adjuster wheel out, so it grabs the disc lightly. Use a flathead screwdriver



Once you've done that, back the adjuster wheel off 6 notches. Although not shown, you can use the wheel nuts to hold the disc on securely. and then reinstall the rubber shield.

11. Install the carrier and bolts, torque up to 107Nm, at this stage make sure you check the guide pin bolts move freely.

12. Put the new pads in, grease the back (i forgot and had to do them again) and then install 1 of the guide pin bolts. I suggest you do the one nearest the front of the car.



13. Then have alook in the bonnet at the brake fluid resevoir, if its on the verge of overflowing syringe some out,ot put a arag round it. Get a G clamp and push the piston back. Only a few mm is required as the rear pads don't usually wear much



14. Reinstall the other guide pin bolt and tighten to 32Nm.

15. Grease the hub, to stop it sticking!



16. Reinstall the wheel and torque up to 110Nm (IIRC)

Right thats it, Hope it helps someone out.